Bad Ems, situated on the banks of the River Lahn, dates back to Roman times and historically was the place for a rest cure for the rich, the famous, and the royal. This beautiful town has also been known as the “Emperor’s Spa,” due to the fact that the Emperor Wilhelm I visited Bad Ems regularly for almost twenty years in the 19th century. The list of dignitaries who visited the town was a long one. From royalty such as King George IV of England to the some of the legends of the arts community, everyone who was anyone came to this lavish spa town for recuperation as well as recreation.
Today Bad Ems is still a place of relaxation and healing. In Germany, many citizens can go to their doctor and be prescribed a “kur.” This is basically an all-expense paid trip to a spa town where you can rest, partake in various therapies, soak in the mineral-rich waters, and restore yourself to health. Nice work (or rest) if you can get it! Kurs are becoming less of a regular part of German life nowadays. The younger generation tends to feel they are not needed or are more for the elderly.
But Bad Ems is a lovely place to wander. The architecture is lavishly Baroque and Rococo in style. The pastel shades of the buildings are cheerful, yet restful. The town has an abundance of parks and green spaces to walk in. Or you can just to sit on one of the many benches along the River Lahn and watch the people stroll past. There didn’t seem to be that many people on the day we were there. This was a little surprising since this was high season, but it was the middle of the week. Sadly, we have noticed a major drop in tourism of late, probably due to the unrest that has hit Europe. We detest crowds and love not having to search for an available table for lunch, so there is an upside for us. But it is a major blow for the local economy. I must admit that it felt rather odd to see so few people enjoying the beautiful day.
The town is not huge and makes a lovely day-trip. Besides all the natural and architectural eye-candy, Bad Ems has a few pleasant diversions for your day. There are some wonderful shops including a few of the antique variety that are really enjoyable to poke around in. There are plenty of places to sit outside and have a typical German lunch without breaking the bank. A hearty and delicious meal of a schnitzel with mushrooms, French fries, and a salad that tasted fresh from the garden was only 10.50 Euros. You can also take a 1-hour boat cruise down the Lahn that allows you to enjoy the scenery while an explanation of the sights and buildings is broadcast over a loud speaker as you
pass. And you’ll want to stop at the Roman Spring for a taste of the mineral water out of the faucet. It is said to cure digestive problems but be sure and bring your own cup. Supposedly the Romans relied upon these waters to ease their tummy troubles after enjoying one feast too many!
There are two lovely churches that deserve special attention. One is the gleaming, golden onion-domed Russian Orthodox chapel dedicated to St. Alexandra. It is only open a few hours in the afternoons. For the entrance fee of 1 Euro you can go inside and see a profusion of Russian icons, paintings, and gold encrusted creations all set inside a surprisingly small space. Saint Martin’s Catholic Church is also worth a stop. With its William Morris-styled frescos painted on the walls, and its distinctive altar decorated with a pelican’s nest and forest animals, this church is truly unique.
Finally, there is a cable railway called the Kurwaldbahn that climbs a very steep 220 meters to a breathtaking view of the Lahn valley every 10 minutes starting around 6:00 a.m. and running until 10:00 at night. At the top, you can grab a bite at a café with panoramic views from the terrace or take a hike on one of the numerous walking paths at your disposal.
There is more to see and do in this enchanting town, but that will have to wait for another day and another visit. Above everything else, the best thing to do in Bad Ems is just relax.
[Note: for those who are not familiar with Germany, “Bad” denotes a spa town, with mineral springs. It translates literally as “Bath.” It is often used as a prefix, as in Bad Homburg or Bad Kissingen, but is also often incorporated into place names, such as Wiesbaden or Karlsbad.]